The summer of 2006 Rama and I got engaged on a bluff overlooking the Aegean Sea. We were told Helen of Troy and Paris spent their first night together on the island in the distance.
First Stop: Nafplio
We rented a car at the airport in Athens, and drove two and a half hours to Nafplio, a port town named after the son of Poseidon. Here, we spent two nights at Pension Marianna, a small, pretty hotel on the top of a cliff overlooking the city. I quickly discovered that the beach here would become one my favorite beaches in the world. At umbrella-covered tables overlooking a pebble shore and a serene sea, we had our first taste of ouzo, while the sounds of Sarah Vaughn singing “Whatever Lola Wants” blasted from the speakers. That night, dinner at one of the restaurants on the town’s main pedestrian street, featured the freshest Greek salad and stuffed tomatoes. Afterwards, we strolled to the town square and watched the children kick around a football under a string of twinkling lights.
Nafplio Hotel: Pension Marianna
www.pensionmarianna.gr
Next Stop: Monemvasia
Through the rugged, hilly landscape, we made our way south. We drove on windy roads that climbed up the side of a mountain, past olive groves, and offered an occasional peak at the sea below. In this hot, peaceful terrain, nary a soul ventured. And we were left alone to absorb this quiet dusty place.
Monemvasia sits upon an enormous rock at the end of a long, thin peninsula. We parked along the road, and entered the medieval fortress on foot. Houses, built into the rock, connect to one another by narrow passageways, and ancient stone steps. At the top, a beautiful Byzantine church looks out over the bay. We ate spaghetti at one of only three restaurants, while stray cats looked on from adjacent rooftops. Quiet filled the night.
Monemvasia Hotel: Goulas
www.gialos.gr
One day, we rode the ferry to Elefonisos, an island just off the end of Cape Malea. Wide sandy shores, beach side restaurants, and outdoor showers, shrouded by bougainvillea greeted us.
Final Stop: Kyrimai Hotel, The Mani
Finally, we arrived at Kyrimai Hotel, in Gerolimenas, a tiny fishing village on the southern tip of the Mani. This lovely hotel is housed within ancient buildings, restored using original stone and wood materials. There’s an excellent restaurant under the veranda, by the pool, that overlooks the moonlit waters of the Aegean Sea.
The Mani Hotel: Kyrimai
www.kyrimai.gr
On our way back to Athens, we took the main highway through Sparta. We had some time before our flight, so stopped at a beach near the Corinth Canal to immerse ourselves once more in that cool, heavenly lagoon.
