
The perfect day in Roanoke starts early. The western Virginia valley air is crisp in the early morning hours. From my house in north central Roanoke we ride bicycles past Huff Lane public school into an adjoining park. We pass through a chain link fence and enter sprawl-city: Valley View Mall may be a self-contained indoor mall but it’s surrounded by haphazardly placed big-box stores. Fortunately there’s a wide sidewalk and not even a mile later we’ve split off the road and descended down the Lick Run Greenway into a wooded area in Northwest Roanoke that’s home to at least 73 different species of birds. In spring or fall, we’re likely to find neotropical migrants following the locals birds in foraging flocks.

{Photo of Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial courtesy of vacationplanning.net}
After a couple of miles we’ll ride through Booker T. Washington Park before crossing busy Orange Avenue – the city’s major east-west corridor. We pass through Gainsboro – an inner-city neighborhood that’s one of the city’s oldest. It was home to Henry Street, a bustling black commercial district that during its heyday hosted such luminaries as Cab Calloway and was at one time home to Oscar Micheaux, one of America’s first black filmmakers. But Gainsboro was subjected to urban renewal, a government experiment in the 60s and 70s that replaced many blocks of houses with industrial development.
On the decimated neighborhood’s periphery we see the historic Hotel Roanoke and the Winston Link Museum, which is home to iconic photographs that are better known than the name of the man who shot them. We’ll gawk at the Taubman Museum of Art but generally ignore it en route to Ernie’s, where we’ll grab breakfast. The grits are fine, but this greasy spoon is best known for its potato cakes. After breakfast we’ll again pick up the bike route that now winds its way past the homeless in Elmwood Park and up Williamson Road – the city’s major north-south corridor – before slicing up Mill Mountain’s western face.

Not many cities have their own mountain – and aside from the 89-foot neon star it’s largely undeveloped near the top. We’ll pass joggers, hikers and other bicyclists on our way to the 1,740 foot summit, which offers a view of the city’s downtown that’s broadcast on a city webcam.
From here we’ll descend the summit, passing through South Roanoke. Known by locals as SoRo, South Roanoke is just about as white as Northwest Roanoke is black. Roanoke avoided the strife that affected much of the South during the civil rights movement when white and black leaders cut a deal to talk businesses into integrating without force or violence. Despite that – some say because of it – the city remains one of the most segregated in the nation. As the school board considers shifting school attendance zones, it faces the possibility that it may worsen the problem further.

{Photo by shyzaboy}
But it’s our perfect day, so we sweep through SoRo, bidding the city’s gentry farewell before climbing Wonju Avenue – named for Roanoke’s sister city in South Korea – and arriving at Awful Arthur’s. Roanoke is a good five hours inland, so the seafood isn’t what you’d expect in someplace like Charleston, SC, but we’re not here for the food. Instead, we take advantage of Roanoke’s recent surge in microbreweries. When I returned to the city in 2003, Roanoke lacked a local microbrew despite a large contingent of advanced home brewers. In recent months, however, there’s been a small explosion of local brewers entering the market. And Awful Arthur’s boasts not one but several varieties. So let’s toast to your and my health.

Then we’ll ride down the road another mile or so to Grandin Court. Some folks say this is where the SoRo wanna-bes live, but Grandin Road itself is ground-zero for Roanoke hipsterdom. We should grab a quick bite at Grace’s Place Pizzeria before stepping next door to take advantage of the going-out-of-business sale at Plan 9 Music – Roanoke’s last indie record store. Let’s grab dessert at Pop’s Ice Cream & Soda Bar before leaving Roanoke to head 30 miles south.
I guess leaving the city may be technically breaking the rules? But it’s my perfect day, and one of my favorite spots in the Roanoke area is Franklin County. This is largely a rural county, but it’s packed with tons of interesting stuff. To the north, FrCo supports Roanoke as a bedroom community. To the east is Smith Mountain Lake, which has drawn a large number of retirees from New England, New York and its surrounding environs. To the south is tobacco country, and to the west we find deep dark hollers that gave Franklin County its reputation as “the moonshine capital of the world.” It’s impossible to go to a party down here without running across a mason jar or three filled with some variation on the basic recipe – smooth or harsh, fruity or clear, you find all kinds.
Don’t take my word for it – check out the late Keister Greer’s definitive “The Great Moonshine Conspiracy Trial of 1935” or the sexier, probably-gonna-be-a-movie-someday novel “The Wettest County in the World.”

The reason we’re in Franklin County, though, is the county’s system of blueways – kinda like this morning’s greenway except we’re talking about rivers. We can fish for trout on the Pigg River – it just got stocked on Tuesday. Or better yet, we can hop in a canoe at any one of dozen put-in spots and take a trip up the Pigg or down the Blackwater. The county hosts a weekend of river events – going from an after-dark float down the Blackwater to the heavily crowded “see and be seen” Pigg River Ramble to the calmer, catered Breakfast on the Blackwater.
I know we’re in Franklin County now, but on another perfect day we could do something awful similar except on the Cowpasture River – my favorite waterway in all the world. So whether in a canoe or inner tubes, let’s float a while. Maybe wet our fishing lines. Then let’s find a party somewhere close. There’ll be moonshine. And since this is the perfect day, we don’t have to worry how we’ll feel tomorrow morning.
Mason Adams covers city, state and federal politics for The Roanoke Times. When not working he hikes, scours used bookstores, referees women’s flat track roller derby and looks for other excuses to run around Virginia and its sister states – generally acting like a damned fool along the way.
{My Perfect Day is a weekly Tidepooler series that reveals the most wonderful and interesting places in cities and towns around the world, as shared by the people who live there}