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Monthly Archives: January 2012

Here’s a little peek at a few of the treasures I’ve picked up over the last few weeks in Paris.

Teapot 1: 6 euros

Teapot 2: 5 euros

Tea cup: 3 euros

2 blue bowls: 4 euros

Five forks, four spoons: 18 euros

Mirror: 10 euros

In Paris, flea markets are called “brocantes” and they’re held in various places around the city on any given weekend. If you’re coming to Paris and want to know where and when the good brocantes are, check brocabrac.fr.

The first one I went to was right in the heart of the city, near all the big “Grand Maison” department stores and close to the Tuleries. Its prices matched its fancy setting. Out of curiosity I asked a carpet dealer about the price of one Persian beauty. He commended me on my eye, pulled it down, spread it across the table and unleashed a flurry of French that included the word “mille,” which for you non francophones means “thousand.”

The next guy was selling a trove of the most gorgeous antique mirrors ever. I pushed the baby carriage gingerly around their gilded frames and tried not to make eye contact.

Disheartened by this ultra posh marché, and rather dismayed about my prospects for picking up a few French treasures during my year in Paris (I had visions of flying to Berlin with an empty suitcase on flea market day, or else training it across the Belgian border to see what kinds of deals I could find there), I headed home with a sole conquest: one of those quaint candle holders that Mrs. Claus might use if she had to leave her bed in the middle of the night. It adds a bit of French charm to our plastic IKEA dining table.

Well, you must be wondering, if I’ve had such bad luck at the brocantes, where did I pick up all those fabulous items in the photos above? I learned quickly, that if I was going to satisfy my innate desire for antiquing, I was going to have to stay away from the single-digit arrondissements.

The day after my visit to that fancy flea market, I headed to the 11th. Just past the Place de la Bastille, site of the former prison and the spot where it all went down that night that sparked the French Revolution, I stumbled upon a long line of cigarette-smoking antiques dealers. How much for the teapot? Six euros you say? Now that’s my kind of flea market. I didn’t even try to talk him down.

Slowly but surely our generically adorned, modernly swayed, IKEA-clad maid’s quarters are getting a little bit of French flair. And I owe heaps to that farm chair I picked up off the street tonight.

 

Chasing pigeons is one of Elodie’s favorite activities. Luckily, Paris has no shortage of these pesky feathered friends, and she can partake in this endless game pretty much anywhere. We found the gardens at the Palais Royal to be the best spot so far. Not only is it full of pigeons, but one of the courtyards has black and white striped columns of varying heights strewn throughout it, making it the perfect place for toddlers (but not so good for blind people). Here’s Elodie pretending to be the Queen of France. “Give me some cake to eat! Put it on my tongue!” she exclaims. If she wants to eat or drink something, she sticks out her tongue and points to it.

After Elodie got tired out running around the former palace grounds, we headed to the Jardins des Tuleries where we sat at a delightful open-air cafe and tried to stay warm with hot chocolate. I practiced my French with the waiter and complimented him on the speed of service, to which he responded with something I didn’t understand but had to do with how young he was. Actually, I’m pretty sure he was a grandpa.

Our first week here was all about the joie de vivre, but now we’re starting to settle into the routine of normal life. Daddy goes to the office every morning, while Elodie gets settled for a nap, and I bang out some work. Once the afternoon rolls around, mommy and baby set out for a super fun adventure in Paris! Of course I’ll be sharing those stories with you soon, but now it’s time to go get a crepe for lunch (since we’re out of baguettes).

 

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I think I am going to like living in Paris. It’s only been four days and I’ve already learned how to make a delicious fish dinner. I could be the next Julia Child. We had no idea what “aiglefin” was when we saw it at the Biocoop, our local organic supermarket, but it looked pretty good. We looked it up when we got home and it turns out to be haddock!

We’ve been exploring the city and settling into our cute little apartment these last few days. Last night we put the baby in the Ergo and went out for a moonlit stroll. Up over one bridge, across the canal, and back over another bridge. We peeked into the windows of the adorable bars and restaurants full of pretty people having fun, and started wishing for a babysitter. How lucky we were to have found this spot. Now if we can just get lucky enough to find a nice French nanny we’ll be all set.

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Elodie visited Sacre Coeur, Palais Royal, and the Tuleries for the first time and she adored them all. Chasing the pigeons proved to be endless fun. It’s definitely a different experience being in Paris with a toddler. I’m hoping to find some kid-friendly cafés in the coming days. Let me know if you have any suggestions and if you know any babysitters in Paris.

It was still dark when we arrived in Paris this morning. The sun didn’t come up until after 8. We took a long nap then walked to the Pompidou Centre where we ate croque monsieurs and French onion soup at a cafe near the museum. We wanted to show Elodie the Eiffel Tower but she fell asleep in her stroller. She’ll have to wait until tomorrow to see the tower gleaming in the sunset with dark broiling clouds all around.

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